Sunday, June 29, 2008

like i'm blossoming

today has been a day of spending on things that matter.

lunch was at graze with sonya, dawn, clara and tiffany. it's a chic little place tucked away with a few other restaurants in rochester park. it's wonderful - the place, the food, the strawberry water. we ate from the breakfast menu, and everything was delicious, from the scones to the double cream, butter, jams, honey, smoked salmon, dill-infused cream cheese, bircher muesli, mushrooms, omelette.

went to the baking shop at jurong with sonya and tiffany. i suppose it's the one that rodney told me about. anyhow, we went there because sonya wanted cookie cutters. in the end, she never found the ones she wanted but i finally bought an oven thermometer, and am now using it to finally calibrate my oven.

on to orchard with auntie ruolin and amanda. we walked round and round looking at books and food. sometimes it's nice to just walk around like that on a sunday.

there goes the baker

this is a fougasse. it's just a simple leaf-shaped flatbread that looks smart and impressive. unfortunately, of the six i made, only this one was the right shape, and looked the most decent. the recipe comes from bertinet's dough.
starting from a clean slate. i dream of a big worktop in my future kitchen - complete with a big marble rolling board, and ruler markings along the sides to help with measurement.
simple white dough made and left to rest. i spent about 1.5 hours working the dough, but it didn't seem to come together. then i read the book again and it says it should take only five minutes. and so i made myself visually believe that in the video, his dough was still sticky by the time he finished working it.
the dough pieces simply weren't big enough for me to cut and shape into nice fougasses. i couldn't stretch the pieces too big because i had to minimise handling the dough; the dough is not left for proving, so you don't want to lose air by overhandling. anyway, you have to really open up the holes or they will seal up again during baking.
the six fougasses. was supposed to use maize flour to achieve a deep golden crust, but i didn't have any, so i just used white flour. i really love the centre one in the top row; it looks just like the one on the cover of my book, save for one missing cut.
anyhow, i'm sitting in front of the computer rewatching desperate housewives and eating a fougasse. just love the dirty laundry on wisteria lane.
i planned on making baguettes after this, but i'm way too tired after spending close to three hours on the fougasses.

marie! the baguettes! hurry up!

Saturday, June 28, 2008

cross arms

bertinet's crust makes its debut in my home today. bertinet's version sprinkles rock salt and sesame seeds. but i don't like those; mine are sprinkled with cinnamon sugar instead.
this is the white dough i made yesterday night. left it in the refrigerator overnight to ferment, but forgot to take a photo of the fermented dough.

the pain de mie i made last week was a straight dough bread - the dough was made in one single mixture of all the ingredients. as opposed to that, these pretzels are made with a pre-ferment - the dough is made by mixing the ingredients with another bit of dough that was already prepared in advance. the use of such a pre-ferment makes for a lighter bread, because of, i think, the added leavening power of the thriving yeast in the pre-ferment. it also gives the bread a deeper and more complex flavour, owing to the longer fermentation process.

(the 100% wholemeal bread was also made with a pre-ferment. it was called a 'poolish'. there is another type of bread made with a pre-ferment - the sourdough. this uses a starter that is grown with wild yeast caught from the atmosphere. i want to try this some day, but because of the complexities of the process involved, i've planned to start it only at the end of this year.)
the final dough mixed together and then rested for one hour. it got really big, and the alcohol smell was so strong.
divided and shaped into the pretzels. they're supposed to look like monks praying with their arms crossed. mine were not very pretty; i couldn't roll them long and thin enough to make the shapes well.
i don't know if the texture's right, but they tasted a bit wrong. not that there was anything wrong with the yeast or dough or anything. it's just that the pretzels were a little salty, yet the topping was cinnamon sugar. probably explains why the original recipe used rock salt and sesame seeds for topping.
this is so pretty it should be a work of art. it's the cinnamon sugar left on the baking sheet when i sprinkled it over the pretzels. you can see the different stages to which the sugar was caramelised (and burnt) in the oven. there's everything from brown to amber to black.

on other news, i have finally opened the packet of ghirardelli twilight delight chocolate that 姑姑 gave me, and am eating it with a slice of bread, like a pain viennois.

Friday, June 27, 2008

不要停止保护我

today's a day off for us, so i'm at home on a friday, after reaching home at unearthly twelve midnight last night.

the past week was quite slack, and the only thing worth remembering is the rambutan-plucking yesterday. it was so fun to watch them climb trees and try so hard to shake them until the rambutans fell. in the end, no rambutans fell, only the entire branch. effectively, there were rambutans to eat.

anyway, after this weekend, i think i'm going to be baking less. just for the birthdays and the occasional outings. (this love has taken it's toll on me/my wallet.)

so: ultimate oatmeal cookies from betty crocker cookie book. not made from betty crocker premixes, but from scratch, thank you. i made a big batch of these to try to clear stock of instant oatmeal lying around the kitchen.
cute, aren't they? haha i used nigella's method of brick-laying to portion out the cookie dough, which gave me very round and equal-sized cookies in the end. next step is to buy a smaller ice cream scoop.

Sunday, June 22, 2008

pain de mie: a lesson on yeast breads

this bread is from bertinet. 'mie' means crumb; the bread is so named because it's all about the crumb rather than the crust. anyway, i baked this last night but had to leave it to cool till today. doesn't matter, because i had a very good breakfast with the bread lightly toasted and spread with jam.

bread-making requires strong flour, which has a higher protein content. as such, when mixed with water, gluten formation is very extensive; a tough dough is formed. the point of having this strong network of gluten is to trap all the gases produced by the yeast as it feeds on the sugars in the dough. the trapped gases expand in the oven to make the bread rise, giving a very airy crumb. at the same time, ethanol produced in the fermentation process vapourises in the oven, and is trapped in the gluten network as well, causing even more rising.

working/kneading the dough to develop the gluten. a tip: (dissolved) salt and yeast should not come into direct contact, or else the yeast will die. what i do is add the yeast and salt into the flour, stir to disperse everything, then add the liquid to make the dough. initially the dough may appear very sticky, but do not add more flour. just keep going at it, and it will come together eventually. if you add more and more flour, you will end up with a stone instead of a loaf.

to determine when your dough has been worked/kneaded enough, do the gluten window test: pinch off a small amount of dough and stretch it between your fingers. if the dough can stretch into a layer so thin that you can see through it, then the dough is ready for the first rise. if the dough snaps, then continue working/kneading and test again later.
the first rise is also called 'resting'. for the recipe, one hour is required, though, really, go by eye: you need the dough to double in size (the timing depends a lot on the temperature of your kitchen). cover the dough with a cloth and leave it in a warm, draught-free place. warm so that it encourages yeast fermentation, draught-free so that the dough doesn't dry out. what i did was to place the covered bowl near the preheating oven, and occasionally spray water onto the cloth to keep it damp.

after the first rise, many bakers, nigella included, would ask you to punch down the dough. but the american book says this is too vigorous for the dough, and you'll lose the gas that has been formed in the resting process. as such, it recommends, and so does bertinet, that you gently pull the dough from the bottom and fold it over itself, and then tip it out of the bowl, onto a floured work surface. divide the dough into the required number of pieces, and shape as desired.
it is possible that during dividing and shaping, you lose a large amount of gas, hence deflating the dough. as such, after shaping the dough, you leave it for a second rising, also called 'proving'. again, wait for the dough to double in size, about one hour. cover with a cloth and place in a warm, draught-free place.

at this point, if you haven't already preheated your oven, it's time to start doing so. bertinet recommends that you preheat your oven from the very start. this instantly creates a warm kitchen environment for your yeast to grow - very useful for a cool day.

professional bread bakers use special ovens to bake bread - their breads are placed directly onto the oven floor so that the bases are immediately sealed upon baking. to recreate this oven in the home, we use a baking stone, which i unfortunately don't have. if you do, preheat the oven with the stone inside, and place the bread directly on the stone to bake. what i did was to use an inverted cookie sheet.

using a baking stone also greatly improves oven spring, the phenomenon where a dough rises spectacularly when placed in the oven. you need this to take place before the top crust is set, otherwise the expanding gases cannot cause the dough the stretch and rise. as such, you want the heat to emanate intensely from the bottom of the dough.
as you can, my oven spring took place horizontally, but not quite vertically. you can also see the big slashes across the tops of the loaves. this is called 'scoring', done just before placing the bread in the oven. the point of scoring is to control where the expanding gases can escape, as well as the finished look of the loaf. if a loaf is unscored, there is a chance that the expanding gases rupture the surface in random cracks. to score your dough, use a very sharp blade to make swift cuts across the surface, after the second rise. score in a manner you like: it can be one big slash, a few small ones, or a checkered pattern. don't cut too deep or you'll risk deflating the dough. and don't stop halfway through or you'll get stuck.

mist the oven using a water spray and quickly slide the loaves in, and mist a few more times. the steam produced helps in developing a good crust. after that, resist the urge to open the oven door anymore, until the baking time is up, or if your loaves are clearly scorching too much.
ok i don't know why mine scorched more on certain spots, but the bread still turned out nice. to test if your loaf is ready to leave the oven, overturn it and tap on the bottom with your fingers. if it makes a hollow sound, then the loaf is done.

after taking it out of the oven, place it on a wire rack to prevent condensation. resist the temptation to slice it and eat while it's hot. this is because the bread is still in the baking process - it doesn't stop until the bread is completely cool. as it cools, the moisture in the bread is still moving from the centre to the crust. this explains why although your loaf may come out with a very appealing and crusty exterior, the crust has already softened by the time you get down to slicing it.

leaving the bread around for the next few days will result in further migration of water from crumb to crust. this gives you stale bread: soft exterior, dry interior. nevertheless, popping it into a toaster will redirect moisture from crust to crumb, and make it delicious again. another suggestion: soak the stale bread in a rich custard, and bake it into a bread pudding.

blackberry-topped cheesecake

the beauty of a no-bake cheesecake is that it demands a lot less mathematical respect compared to baked cakes and yeast breads - you can fiddle with the amount of biscuits to suit your preference for the thickness of the crust; change the size of the pan to suit what you have on hand; alter the amount of cheese or cream to suit your taste, or, indeed, to use up what you have left. which is what i did: in a bid to not have any leftover whipping cream, i used the whole packet, which contained about 60% more than what was required. do all that, and the cheesecake still comes out perfect.

so, this is a spin-off from the strawberry-topped cheesecake by nigella. with blackberry jam this time, because it was lying around the house.

Saturday, June 21, 2008

粉红系男子

whee i went to orchard with yishi and weiyang today to watch get smart, which was an absolutely lame movie. the level of lameness in their jokes is actually quite unprecedented. then we were walking everywhere for food, cds, and books. omg i succumbed to the temptation of 20% kinokuniya discounts and bought another bread book. this one is by jeffrey hamelman. i haven't actually browsed through a copy before, but from what i see on the cover, i think it's going to be a promising book.

anyhow, i'm back home now making a cheesecake and some bread loaves.

还未等到的烛光晚餐

just came back from a very long and tiring day outfield. not a very pleasant experience. took a taxi back with yopin, kenneth and jerome, under a glowing round moon; this week the moon has been round for quite a few nights.

on one of the nights i actually dreamt of being in a norwegian winter night. there was aurora, though it looked very electrical, once in a while making a zapping entrance. i expect the real thing to be much more gentle, much more subtle. then i realised that in the moments when you drift between sleep and consciousness, that's when your mind is independent of your control, when it is at its clearest.

this week i have lost myself. not in the i'm-going-mad way, but, indeed, literally losing my-self. i'm becoming this thing that i don't like, that i don't want to turn into. yet, everyone else seems to want me to be like that. i can't quite convince myself that it's for my own good. one thing i know is, i don't want to lose myself.

and then i learnt that living well is the best revenge. george herbert. from sophie kinsella's can you keep a secret?, which was a completely whiny and romantic book. it's just like listening to a girl's mind talk.

so: today was a long day of camouflage cream and sweating. running and shouting, asking what's happening. asking why the enemy isn't dying. carrying insane loads of weaopons. 80%-clean weapons. honestly. (with the roll-eye effect.) and kenneth ousted me to the front seat of the taxi, where you get left out of everything.
right now i'm at home enjoying the midnight comfort of (leftover) brownies. speaking of which, the birthday brownies looked so pretty when they were pinned with numerous candles and set alight. but sunshine thinks they're not sweet enough. i want to use up the leftover cream cheese, but i don't feel up to baking a cheesecake; i think it's time for another no-bake cheesecake.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

four-bake

scones:

woke up at 7am and immediate started baking. after many items to serve up freshly-baked breakfast, i finally got my timing right; the scones came out exactly at breakfast time.
ok fine, i didn't specially make something for fathers' day, but merely used the frozen dough made two weeks ago. still, the scones were nice.

brownies and blondies:

i made these for the june birthdays in the bunk. they were all nigella recipes, and quite successful too. this was also my chance to test if cadbury chocolate can be used for baking. i'm glad to find that the dark chocolate turned out beautiful in the brownies, so i'll never have to buy expensive baking bars anymore. the white chocolate, however, seized/separated when i was melting it with the butter. i still don't know what caused it yet - too hot, moisture?
from batter to brownie: these is the plain brownie into which i've stirred walnuts. i tried the original recipe two months ago and failed to bake it completely. this time i reduced the recipe to one-third, and managed to get very chewy brownies.
the batter for the cream cheese brownies was a little scant. i didn't have enough batter to make the brownie-cheese-brownie layers, so i just stirred everything together. these turned out very moist, very nice, but the cream cheese taste was too subtle. i need that salty sourness to cut through but it didn't.
blondie: the white version of brownie. to be honest, i really hate white chocolate; it's just so not chocolate. in a very bree way, you can by all means use white chocolate in certain dishes, but don't pretend you're using chocolate.

because of the seized/separated chocolate, i used my mixer to beat the batter into form. stirred in some damn expensive macadamia nuts. quoting nigella, blonde brownies can never have the depth and intensity of their darker sisters... very. blonde. of. them.
so, i sliced the brownies and blondies and stacked them. so pretty right! the idea is to stick many candles on them, set them gloriously alight, and celebrate the birthdays.

思: thought, 甜(田)在心上

Saturday, June 14, 2008

crossed, entwined

damn the closed eyes in the photo. anyways, beejuan brought us to food for thought at bugis for lunch. like the place, like the food. should see the red velvet cake; it really looks red. the desserts were very nice! there was a sudden urge to join in the great singapore sale and go shopping, but in the end we bought nothing.

met with sunshine, guohao, yopin and kenneth for dinner. almost ate at fish & co again, but alas it was closed for renovation or something. went to nydc instead.

at this point i need to make a memory. i first went to the exact same restaurant when i was just sec 1 or 2, with 姑姑, and at that time i ordered the meatball that ate manhattan and couldn't finish it.

today i ordered the exact same thing, and finished it. tried the elmer fudge cake as well, which was so perfect. i am shocked by the amount sunshine eats, and i spent $42 on food today =(
i like an outfit that liberates me from social expectations. today i sketched in my mind the kind of bakery i want to open, if i ever do. also, i learnt a shocking truth that i don't want to believe in: we all begin to have less and less in common with our ex-classmates, to the point that we never go out anymore on weekends. this calls for more gatherings around feasts. i think it's food that defines who we are, and although the food we eat is different, we share the desire to sit with others and eat together.

Friday, June 13, 2008

track 4

this has been a very eventful week, though i was left quite with my own devices. everyday involved shooting. monday night involved some decadent midnight bedside snacking (on yihui's chocolates and my own cookies); so glad i brought them. on the tuesday night-out, i went with the guys and found a lot of jaejoong at comics connection. i watched a spider diligently spin its web on wednesday night, like in charlotte's web. still, i don't like spiders. finished reading middlesex while waiting endlessly during the shoots. i kind of failed the shooting test - tried again and again, down to the last bullet. during some therapeutic cleaning of my gun on thursday, my finger cramped for the first time. today's activity was the TES challenge, in which i was a poor thing in camouflage paint, holding a gun and shooting at nothing. i hid as requested, and survived as requested.

a few years later, i wonder if i'll remember what all my entry titles refer to.

the week-overdue post

return of the seibu:

this was at marriott hotel, where seibu made her surreal appearance in a glowing passageway. so, her teacher's engagement a few years ago finally led to the actual wedding. that's literally a very long engagement.

bitter orange ice cream:

zesting and juicing the orange and limes. not entirely clean hands were involved, and some of beejuan's nails got grated in =/
adding in the icing sugar. at this point in time, the citrus smell of the fruits was quite quite pungent, and quite weird.
behold, the power of a hand whisk. this is the before and after shot of the ice cream mixture. took quite a lot of arm power to bring the cream to soft peaks. and the mixture tasted quite nice.
left the ice cream to freeze overnight, though i think it got too cold and too hard. even though the mixture tasted nice the night before, the ice cream turned out tasting really weird. maybe it was the cream used. we only ate a few spoonfuls. whatever became of the rest, i don't know. sigh, i thought this recipe from nigella bites would be a hit.

egyptian dinner:

the night before seibu left, we had (semi-)class dinner at an egyptian restaurant hidden deep in an alleyway or something. well the food was quite interesting, and so was the whole experience with the flies. after the dinner i gave out my brownies; they were popular =) and yihui gave out some chocolates from switzerland!
this is the photo of us walking down the alleyway: amanda, yihui, beejuan, clara, seibu, me. where's the couple? they're behind the camera.

last things:

ok, the seibu has definitely gotten rounder. time passes so fast. weiyang has finished bmt already, and i am close to completing half a year of service. i used to think that everything will be just the way it was. sadly, no.